Tomatoes
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Tomatoes
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Tomato Treasures The tomato, Lycopersicon lycopersicum, originated in the Andes as a weed with tiny red fruits growing between maize and beans. It traveled to Mexico and was cultivated by the Aztecs. It was given the Nahautl name tamatl which simply means plump fruit. It arrived in Europe in the late 16th century and the Spaniards called it tamate. The tamate had the misfortune of looking too handsome to be a food and it was simply admired as an ornamental plant. Italian botanists and horticulture experts lovingly cross-bred the yellow pomodoro (apple of gold) to increase its size and change its color to brilliant red. Like the potato, it is a member of the Solonaceae, a family that includes deadly nightshade. It was therefore deemed unfit to eat. The leaves are indeed poisonous, but the fruit is loaded with vitamins A and C. The jelly-like substance between the pulp is particularly rich in these vitamins. As we have learned over the years, it is a precious fruit.
However, we no longer call it a fruit, at least in the United States. In 1893, because of differential custom fees, there was a trade dispute about the tomato's classification as fruit or vegetable and the U. S. Supreme Court proclaimed it a vegetable. Chapter 7-2 (making pizza)
In Europe, Italian chefs experimented with the tomato as early as the seventeenth century, first as a condiment and later as a sauce for pasta. The tomato sauces were a welcome addition, they added color, sparkle and tart-sweet flavor to whatever had been bland. As a novelty the tomato became popular in southern Italy, traveled north and eventually revolutionized all of Italian cooking. By the mid-seventeenth century it had become an essential ingredient in Mediterranean cuisine because it is extremely adaptable and blends well with every style of cooking. With meat, chicken, vegetables, as well as pasta, rice and beans it maintains the landmark flavor of its country. In time it became an indispensable topping for pizza.
Raw tomatoes were still eyed with suspicion. Conservative Italians simmered tomato sauces for hours as the surest way to get rid of toxins. Of course the long cooking thickened the sauce and blended the flavors, but safety was also on their minds. Tomatoes, now the third largest crop in the United States, are eaten in a hundred ways, cooked, fried, baked, but also fresh. A fresh sun-ripened tomato is a heavenly treat that is becoming an endangered species. Mechanical harvesting on a vast scale dictates that the tomatoes must be hard and green when picked. That's essential for machine harvesting and fast transport and handling. As soon as tomatoes show a touch of pink at the blossom end they have reached the mature-green ripening stage and may legally be marketed as vine-ripened. To give them the tomato color they are sprayed with ethylene gas, a natural organic compound which speeds ripening and is extensively used on bananas, peaches and other fruits. The tomatoes harvested by the ton at the beginning of their ripening stage look good in the market, but they do not have the flavor that develops naturally on the vine. The skins are tough and the pulp is often mealy. If the harvesting machine makes errors and picks tomatoes before the mature-green stage they remain tough, tasteless balls better suited to golf courses than dinner tables. In transit the tomatoes may also be subjected to temperatures below 55 degrees, either because of the outside temperature or because they are transported in refrigerated cars. At 55 degrees the ripening process is halted and these tomatoes never achieve even a semblance of taste. Little wonder that for the home-gardener, the tomato is queen of vegetables, the most important crop of the growing season. Hot-house tomatoes have more flavor, they spend more time in the ground and are picked when almost fully ripe. They are more expensive and worth the extra cost, but if you buy them be sure they are fresh - look for leaves or stems that can tell you whether they were recently picked or have been in cold storage where the taste vanishes. Since succulent fresh tomatoes are such a precious crop it is a comfort to know that excellent canned tomatoes are now available. Italian plum tomatoes are vine-ripened, juicy and full of flavor. They are healthful, providing fiber as well as vitamins. Concentrated purées and pastes contain a heaping amount of beta-carotene. Whole or stewed tomatoes are excellent for soups, stews, sauces and a multitude of other dishes. That is good news for any homemaker and gardener who has spent hours in a steamy kitchen peeling and canning the tomato crop. Nothing beats a fresh, ripe tomato for taste, but there are techniques for intensifying flavor that have been developed by the world's great chefs. Fine restaurants feature entrées and salads embellished with Italian "sun dried tomatoes." Red, ripe tomatoes set out in the Mediterranean sun shrivel, dry and concentrate their tomato taste. They are often packed in fruity olive oil enriched with the flavor of herbs or spices and marketed in jars. World gourmets who can afford these expensive gems savor them. The Mediterranean climate is ideal for sun-drying tomatoes, but "dried tomatoes" can be achieved in your own kitchen. They are not sun dried but if you want to create a more robust tomato flavor and concentrated taste they make a worthwhile addition. Dried Tomatoes6 ripe tomatoes (or whatever quantity you can manage at one time) 1 tablespoon coarse salt 8 fresh basil leave - shredded into small pieces 8 mint leaves - coarsely shredded 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 peeled garlic clove, minced 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Cut the tomatoes in half, place them cut side up on a tray and sprinkle with salt. Let stand for 30 minutes, then gently squeeze them and pour off the accumulated liquid. Rinse and pat dry. Salting intensifies flavor and crisps the tomatoes. This is a good technique for avoiding watery salads - whether or not you plan to dry the tomatoes. (Save the liquid and use it elsewhere.) To start the drying process place the rinsed tomatoes on a baking sheet cut side up and bake at the lowest possible oven temperature, probably 200 degrees, for about seven hours. They shed most of their moisture, but are still soft. Save whatever liquid has accumulated and use it in soup or gravy to capture the nutrients. In a wide-mouthed jar, layer the tomatoes with shredded basil and mint leaves, dried oregano, and minced garlic. Pour olive oil over tomatoes to cover - you may need a little more oil than the recipe calls for. Close jar tightly and refrigerate. With this delicious genie in a jar and the help of a food processor you can make memorable sauces in a matter of minutes. Orange and yellow tomatoes which are advertised as low-acid are actually sweeter because of their sugar content, there is no appreciable reduction in acid. For the peak of goodness nothing beats the taste and aroma of really fresh tomatoes. When I cannot pick them from the garden I buy them a little under-ripe and put them in a paper bag with an apple or banana to give off ethylene gas and speed ripening. I don't try to ripen them on a sunny window sill. They overheat and ripen unevenly. Round slicing tomatoes are best for salads and sandwiches . They should be firm and heavy for their size. Never refrigerate them or buy them from the refrigerator case. Temperatures below the 55 degree mark will not only stop the ripening process, the cold will destroy their fragrance and taste. Fully ripe tomatoes, those that are soft and yield to the touch, may be refrigerated in the warmest part of the refrigerator. Better yet, make a speedy sauce or soup to enjoy their ripe flavor. Busy homemakers rarely have the luxury of simmering tomato sauces for hours. The food processor has revolutionized cooking. It can accomplish in seconds what was once laborious work. A simple version of a fresh-tasting tomato sauce can be prepared in a little more than 30 minutes. Quick Tomato Sauce1 six-ounce can tomato paste 2 cans whole or stewed tomatoes 1 stalk celery cut into 1-inch pieces 1 clove garlic 1 small onion, quartered 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes Place all the ingredients in food processor and blend thoroughly with steel blade. Adjust the seasoning to taste and pour sauce into a heavy saucepan. Simmer for 30 minutes. In this recipe the salt may be eliminated because the spices give good flavor. Yields about 2-1/2 cups. A more typical Italian version can still benefit from canned tomatoes and the speed of the food processor. Italian Tomato Sauce1 medium-sized onion coarsely chopped onion 2 to 3 cloves garlic 3 sprigs Italian parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large cans of whole or stewed tomatoes 1 six-ounce can tomato paste 1 teaspoon dried basil, or 5 fresh basil leaves 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon pepper 2 cups water 5 drops Tabasco Sauce Heat oil and sauté the garlic until golden brown, remove from pan and place onion and parsley in the same pan until onion is lightly browned. Remove garlic, onion and parsley to food processor, and use the metal blade. Gradually add stewed tomatoes and tomato paste to bowl. Chopping this quantity may require dividing it into several batches. Into a large saucepan place processed tomatoes and add remaining ingredients, put the water in last. Simmer sauce over low heat for about 2 hours, less if the sauce reaches the desired thickness in less time. Stir occasionally. This quantity will yield 3 cups of thick, flavorful sauce to which you may add mushrooms, pimentos, chili or meat. These sauces are delicious on pasta, but rice also begs for the tomato taste and an especially good risotto may be made with plain or seasoned tomato juice. Risotto with Fresh Cheese (4 to 6 servings)1 teaspoon olive oil 1 small onion, minced 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced 1-1/2 cups Arborio rice 2 quarts tomato juice cocktail 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste Freshly ground pepper to taste 1/2 pound mozzarella, diced 8 chopped basil leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried basil Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan at medium heat. Add onions and garlic, sauté until soft. Add rice and stir. Ladle in 1/2 cup tomato juice and stir. Continue ladling juice as it is absorbed, 1/2 cup each time, stirring constantly until rice is tender but firm, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in cheese and basil. A mainstay in my freezer is an eggplant-tomato combination ready to embellish pizza, pasta or casseroles, any recipe that calls for a thick tomato sauce. It may also be used as a delicious dip for crudités or as a vegetable side-dish. Eggplant-Tomato Sauce2 tablespoons salad oil 1 clove garlic - peeled and lightly mashed 1 chopped onion 1 green pepper - diced 1 medium-sized eggplant, coarsely chopped or diced 1 pint of tomato sauce or a 14 ounce can of tomato purée 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon brown sugar Sauté garlic in oil until lightly browned. Remove garlic. Over medium heat sauté onions and green pepper until soft. Add eggplant, tomato purée, sugar and salt. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Check to see whether mixture looks dry. Eggplant loses moisture after harvesting and may need a cup of water to restore liquid. Stir, simmer for another 10 minutes. This sauce will stay fresh in the refrigerator for about five days, or freeze in rigid pint containers. The French who pride themselves on exquisite sauces rich with butter, wine and heavy cream were in no rush to follow the Italians by introducing the foreign tomato into their cooking. They called the tomato pomme d'amour (love apple) and like many other Europeans were convinced that it was an aphrodisiac. But the tomato gradually found its way into French cooking, especially when laced with wine. Veal and Mushroom Casserole3 pounds veal shoulder or rump cut into 1-inch squares 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup minced onion 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup chicken or veal broth 1 can 14 oz. stewed tomato 1/2 teaspoon thyme 4 slices of orange rind 2 cloves mashed garlic Seasoning to taste 1/2 pound fresh button mushrooms 1/2 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with a tablespoon water Dry meat thoroughly and brown in heavy pan over medium heat. Toss meat with flour into oven-proof casserole. Brown onion in the same pan, add wine and broth to browned onions. Boil for one minute. Add to veal then deglaze pan with a little more wine. Stir tomato purée and tomato paste into casserole. Add herbs, orange peel and garlic. Season lightly, bring to a simmer on stove top. Cover and set the casserole into a 350 degree preheated oven for 1-1/2 hours. When ready to serve, quarter mushrooms and add to veal. Mix cornstarch with water, stir into casserole, return to oven for 15 minutes. The bite-sized veal is an excellent main dish for a buffet. It arrives at the table warm and succulent. It will serve 12 people with moderate appetites.
The story starts in China long before the tomato was known in the East. The Chinese flavored their food with a sauce they called ke-tsiap. The word may have originated in Malay as a briny soy sauce called kechap. , which is their word for taste. Sailors brought the sauce to England where it was made from mushrooms, walnuts or cucumbers rather the soy bean of China. It may have been the influence of Mexican cooking that inspired Heinz to try tomatoes as one of his 57 varieties. Ketchup's success with fast and junk foods make it too commonplace for haute cuisine, but no one will take exception to a homemade tomato ketchup served by the proudest cooks. Start with canned tomatoes, the canning does not mar their flavor. Homemade Tomato Ketchup1 teaspoon salt 10 black peppercorns 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds 1/4 teaspoon celery seed 1/4 cup sugar 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 can tomato sauce (14-1/2 ounce size) 2 tablespoons minced onion 1 clove of garlic, minced 4 tablespoons light corn syrup 4 tablespoons cider vinegar Juice of l lemon Combine spices in blender, coffee grinder or mini-food processor until smooth. In a stainless steel or enamel pot combine spices with tomatoes, heat and stir until completely smooth. Add onion and garlic to tomatoes, simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and add corn syrup, vinegar and lemon juice. Mix thoroughly and strain through a fine mesh strainer. This will make 2 average-size bottles. Cool and keep refrigerated.
Liquids sopped up with bread are peasant fare in wheat-eating countries like Spain and Portugal. The custom of sopping up food goes back to our earliest ancestors and the word soup is related to sop, which gives us a clue to its ancient origin. The arrival of juicy tomatoes ushered in another sopping-up food for peasants, and the bread-tomato combination became inevitable. What emerged is gazpacho, a zesty soup that is almost a liquid vegetable salad eaten with crackers, bread or croutons. Crusty bread is soaked in water and then squeezed into small pieces that thicken the soup. Gazpacho is no longer peasant fare, it is one of the most popular summer treats, served icy cold, with slabs of thick, crusty bread or seasoned croutons. It is served at the best tables with an array of side dishes and crisp greens, but it still has the heartiness of earlier times. Gazpacho (serves 8 to 10)6 large ripe tomatoes or 2 eight-ounce cans of whole or stewed tomatoes 3 cloves of garlic 1 medium red onion, cut into 2-inch pieces 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into 2-inch pieces 1 green pepper, seeded and cut into quarters 1/2 teaspoon chopped Jalapeño pepper - or to taste 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro or parsley 4 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 3/4 cup tomato juice Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Combine tomatoes, garlic, onion, cucumber, green pepper and chop by hand or in a food processor. This quantity will require running two or more batches through the processor. Add remaining ingredients. Pour soup into container and refrigerate for several hours before serving. Croutons also liven up the traditional Spanish version. Serve the soup with separate bowls of croutons, chopped cucumber, green pepper, and chopped hard-boiled egg to make it a feast. Garlic Croutons1 loaf French or Italian bread 2 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly scored to release flavor 4 tablespoons olive oil Freshly ground pepper to taste Rub the outer crust of the bread with garlic. Cut bread into 1/4 inch slices. Sprinkle one side with olive oil, grind some pepper over it and broil in a preheated broiler until brown. Turn and brown on the other side Garlic has taken on new chic and it is being confirmed as a healthful food. Combined with tomatoes, spices and bread it fits right on the nutritionist's recommended list. Garlic Tomatoes - serves 46 ripe fresh tomatoes 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 cloves minced garlic 3 slices day-old crusty bread 3 tablespoons chopped basil Salt and pepper to taste Core the tomatoes, cut in half horizontally. Gently squeeze out seeds and juice, and save this vitamin-rich part of the tomatoes for soups and stews. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and set aside. Sauté onions in olive oil until soft but not brown. Add garlic and stir thoroughly. Add the chopped tomatoes and let simmer uncovered for about ten minutes, until the mixture thickens. Stir occasionally. Soak the bread in water, squeeze out and crumble into tomato mixture. Add basil, salt and pepper. Heat and serve in small bowls. Garnish with basil leaves.
On Mediterranean beaches you can get a tomato sandwich which is a gustatory delight. Pan Bagna1 large round, crusty loaf of bread 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced 1 cup of crushed fresh basil leaves 2 tomatoes, thinly sliced (stand tomatoes upright for slicing) 2 cucumbers, thinly sliced 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vinegar Freshly ground pepper to taste Cut the bread horizontally in half. Sprinkle cut surface with olive oil and spread basil and garlic on each half. Arrange tomatoes and cucumber slices on bread. Sprinkle salt, pepper and vinegar then join the two halves together. Press down and put under a heavy weight to allow oil and vinegar to penetrate. One loaf of bread makes six wedges and the taste is really remarkable.
An Italian peasant food called panzanella is well suited to modern diets. Panzanella - serves 4 to 61/4 loaf or about 3 ounces of firm coarse-textured bread 2 large, ripe tomatoes 2 cloves minced garlic 4 ribs of celery - cut crosswise into 1/2 inch slices 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 green sweet pepper, diced 1 red sweet pepper, diced 1 seeded cucumber, diced 12 flat anchovy fillets - cut crosswise into thirds 2 tablespoons drained capers 1 teaspoon dried basil leaves Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons white or cider vinegar 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Break the bread into 2-inch pieces and soak in cold water for about ten minutes. Cut tomatoes into 1-inch cubes and discard the cores. Put tomatoes into a large salad bowl, add garlic, celery, cucumbers, onion, peppers, anchovies, capers and basil. Drain bread and squeeze it. Gently crumble moist bread into smaller pieces and add to other ingredients. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil. Toss well.
Leaving the world of hearty peasant food we turn to a condiment that is just right for a grand dinner party. It also makes a spicy-sweet spread for breakfast toast. Spiced Tomato Conserve6 medium or 5 large tomatoes, enough to make 3 cups chopped 1/2 teaspoon lemon rind 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon cloves 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon allspice 1 box powdered pectin (Sure Jell) 4-1/2 cups sugar Scald, peel, chop tomatoes and simmer for ten minutes. Add lemon rind, juice and ground spices. Add pectin and stir over high heat until mixture boils hard. At once stir in sugar. Bring back to a full boil and boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, skim off foam. Let stand for 10 minutes, that helps distribute the fruit. Pour into clean glasses. It will make 5 glass jars.
The home gardener is appalled at the speed with which frost warnings come in the fall. Tomatoes are still on the vine! Those tomatoes that have shown a sign of pink will ripen in the house. Those that are hard little green rocks and have not achieved the ripening stage are not likely to change color. You can fry them or do something better - make mincemeat. Meatless mincemeat has fewer calories and less saturated fat than the old-fashioned version which has bits of beef and pork mixed in with the sweets. Green Tomato Mincemeat3 pounds green tomatoes, about 10 or 12 3 tart apples 1 cup raisins 2 cups brown sugar, firmly packed 1 cup strong coffee 1 teaspoon grated orange peel 1 lemon (grated peel and juice) 1/4 cup cider vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon allspice Core and quarter tomatoes and apples. Put through food processor or grinder together with raisins. Combine all ingredients in a heavy kettle and simmer for 1-1/2 hours or until mixture has become thick. Stir frequently. Pour into 5 well-cleaned hot pint jars, seal and process in boiling water bath for 25 minutes.
Chutney is another condiment that makes the most of green tomatoes. Green Tomato and Apple Chutney2 pounds green tomatoes, coarsely chopped 2 pounds apples, coarsely chopped 1 pound firmly packed brown sugar 1 pound yellow onions, coarsely chopped 1/2 pound seedless raisins 2 cups cider vinegar 2 medium sized carrots, grated 1-1/2 tablespoons salt 1/2 teaspoon ground mace (optional - but very good) 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 6 black peppercorns 6 whole cloves 2 bay leaves In a large, heavy kettle, over high heat, mix tomatoes, apples, brown sugar, onions, raisins, vinegar, carrots, salt, mace and cayenne paper. Bring to a boil. Stir frequently to prevent scorching. Tie peppercorns, cloves and bay leaves in a cheesecloth bag and add to the kettle. Reduce heat to moderately low and simmer uncovered for 2 hours or until all the ingredients are soft. Pack in hot sterilized jars, leaving 1/2 inch headroom. |
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All material on this site is copyright 2003-2005 by Vicki Oppenheimer and Milpah Press. For information on the availability of the printed version of The Taste Makers, please write to us. This page was last updated on 24-Nov-2005. |
By 1832 pizzerias in Italy had become jolly places, not to be
confused with pizzerias in Little Italy, a district in New York City. The
pizzeria was different from the formal knife and fork dining rooms of
traditional restaurants and more sedate than rowdy taverns. Families could
gather to watch the pizza-makers twist and toss their pizzas high in the air.
The hearth ovens made a cheery background. Counters displayed a wide choice of
toppings, and customers could design their own favorite combinations. The tomato
became a popular choice despite its poisonous reputation .