Squashes


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Honoring the Maya with Squashes and Pumpkins

The Puritan work ethic, imported from English farming practices, dictated rigorous standards of labor. The settlers cleared the land, engaged in intensive plowing, and followed a rigid schedule of planting. Their hard work was scantily rewarded. On the other hand the Indians, whom the colonists considered lazy, survived with much less effort. Untroubled by rigid rules, they garnered wild plants, thinned the forest to help spot game, set brush fires to clear the ground, and planted on the previous year's rubble.

In recent years, these farming practices have gained respectability. Smokey Bear now condones controlled burning, selective thinning of forests is rigorously favored over clear-cutting, and many modern farmers, astride tractors, practice no-till agriculture, sowing crops on the rubble of last year's growth.

Thousands of years ago Maya farmers planted corn, beans and squash on mounds they called milpahs, and each year they renewed their planting on the mounds. The milpahs looked littered and in disarray but the plants thrived, and the Maya worshipped the plants as the "three sisters of life"

Two of the sisters, corn and beans, had a special affinity for each other. Cornstalks grew tall and straight, and the beans curled around the stalks with stubborn tendrils. In gratitude, the beans deposited nitrogen in the soil and helped the nitrogen-hungry corn flourish.

Scientists of our time have confirmed the Maya faith in the life-sustaining qualities of this twosome. Corn and beans together possess complementary amino acids found in grains and legumes and thus make up the complex proteins needed to sustain life.

Squash, the third sister of that plant trinity, was the milpah's stern guardian. The broad squash leaves spread across the ground and kept the soil moist. In addition, the leaves' prickly character kept herbivores at a safe distance.

The summer squashes we now enjoy are picked immature and have solid shells and tender flesh. They contain few calories (they're 95 percent water) and if not buttered or fried are good as diet food and make crisp additions to salads.

Winter squashes pack more nutritional wallop. They are mature, hard-shelled members of the gourd family. Uncut they may be stored for as long as three months (well into the lean winter months), and they deliver a rich array of complex carbohydrates. Their yellow or orange flesh is rich in beta carotene which converts to vitamin A.

Acorn, hubbard, butternut, buttercup, turban are just a few of the winter squashes that come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The most conspicuous member of the squash clan is the pumpkin. Mountains of pumpkins are stacked at farm stands in the fall and 99 percent of them are carved into Hallowe’en jack-o-lanterns.

The Hallowe’en holiday originated in the seventh century as "All Hallows' Eve" to honor "all known and unknown saints and martyrs." It was a frightening time when the veil between the living and dead was supposedly lifted. We still have ghouls and goblins to give us the shivers and also the "trick or treat" custom which probably harks back to the Gaelic "soul cake" offerings to beneficiaries who vowed to pray for good harvests.

The jack-o-lantern is a strictly American invention since none of these squashes existed in the Old World. After the Hallowe’en celebration, the good cook or homemaker callously slits the lantern's grinning face with a cleaver, then removes the seeds and strings and places the halves, face down, onto a cookie sheet. The pumpkin halves will look soft, deflated and ready to peel if baked in a 350-degree oven for about an hour. The pulp, puréed in a blender or food processor, can be stored in the freezer ready for pies, pumpkin soup, stews and other goodies. Canned pumpkin tastes good and is convenient, but a jack-o-lantern in the yard is a cook's irresistible challenge.

Here are recipes adapted from Indian lore and good nutrition.

Pumpkin Soup

1 large onion, halved and sliced

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 teaspoon curry powder

2 cups puréed pumpkin, canned or baked

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups cream or half & half.

21/2 cups chicken stock

Sauté onion in melted butter until soft. Add curry powder - sauté for an additional minute. Process pumpkin, curried onions and salt in food processor, just a few turns. Add cream to the purée and transfer to a large saucepan. Add chicken stock and heat slowly. Serve piping hot. Garnish with sour cream and lemon slices.

Pumpkin Bread

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup oil

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup puréed pumpkin

1/3 cup water

1-1/4 cup white flour

3/4 cup whole wheat flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon cloves

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 cup raisins

Stir until all ingredients are blended. Bake in a 350 degree oven for one hour. Test for doneness by inserting a toothpick, which should come out dry.

Baked Winter Squash Pudding

3 pounds butternut, hubbard or acorn squash

1 cup chopped onion, lightly sautéed in oil

4 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

1 clove of garlic minced

1 tablespoon shredded fresh basil

3 eggs slightly beaten

Salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup breadcrumbs, packaged or homemade

Split squash into large chunks and bake in a 350-degree oven until soft. Scoop squash from shell and chop coarsely. In a large kettle or pan, sauté onion until soft, add squash, garlic, parsley, basil, salt, pepper and beaten eggs. Add water, mix well to combine all ingredients.

Pour into a 9 x l3 inch greased baking pan and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Dot with butter. Bake 45 minutes or until pudding is lightly browned.

Yields at least 8 servings.

Pumpkin Bars—an easy dessert

2 cups pumpkin purée or a 15 ounce can of pumpkin

4 eggs

1-1/2 cups sugar

1 cup oil

2 cups all-purpose f1our

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

Beat eggs by hand and add to other ingredients in mixing bowl or food processor until all ingredients are absorbed. Pour into a 13 x 9 x 2 inch greased pan and bake for 25 minutes in a 350-degree preheated oven. While cake is still warm cover with frosting and cut into squares.

Cream Cheese Frosting

3 ounces softened cream cheese

1/2 cup butter

Combine the ingredients to make a smooth frosting and cover cake. You can make 30 1-inch squares.

All material on this site is copyright 2003-2005 by Vicki Oppenheimer and Milpah Press. For information on the availability of the printed version of The Taste Makers, please write to us.

This page was last updated on 24-Nov-2005.