Beans
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Beans
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The Clinging Vine
On the hilled mounds called milpahs, campesinos of the Yucatan Peninsula still carefully train beans to curl onto cornstalks. The stalks that support the beans grow tall and sturdy, fertilized by nitrogen that the beans deposit into the soil. The time-honored partnership of beans and corn dates back to ancient forebears who domesticated and cultivated these plants and built a great Maya civilization. For today's Mexican farmers it is a hallowed custom, and for people throughout the world. grains and legumes are the traditional foods that have been the fundamental bases of agriculture and ensuing civilization. In the beginning cavemen and prehistoric hunters inhabited a world teeming with game. Animal protein was usually abundant. Roots, nuts, berries, greens, pods, and vines made for a diverse and healthful diet. As populations increased and people settled into agricultural societies, game in surrounding areas was overhunted and became scarce. Plants which had only been supplemental to the meat diet took on a more vital role. It was essential for early farmers to expand their experiments with grasses and grains and to learn more about roots and other edible plants. Beans must have been a successful crop from the start. The nitrogen these legumes add to the soil fertilizes and enriches it, whereas other plants deplete it. Three great world agricultural centers emerged, each of which developed foods based on available plant resources. In China and most of the Far East, rice farming became the outstanding grain crop. The soybean, by nature reluctant to deliver its share of protein, was tamed, pickled and preserved and finally exploited as a lavish provider. Rice and soybeans are still the basis of the Asiatic diet. There are an infinite number of ways in which these foods can be combined, from primitive peasant fare to fashionable glutinous rice delicacies and savory bean sauces for festive occasions, The Near East, the fabled fertile crescent of history, was a lavish testing ground for wheat, barley, millet, lentils, beans, peas and many other grains and root vegetables. These foods eventually traveled all over Europe and Africa and created an economy based on wheat. Breads, pasta, gruel and products made from ground meal were the mainstay of the diet for well-fed trenchermen and lowly peasants. The Meso-American civilizations gave birth to corn, a grain like no other. Corn was the goddess, a plant so versatile and bountiful that it could sustain people throughout the year. It was worshipped as the giver of life. Myths and legends spun around its sowing and harvesting. The bean became corn’s partner and took on fanciful connotations for the rituals of planting. Ritual often develops from experience. Early medicine men perhaps decided that beans and corn were meant for each other. We now know this to be true because they complement each other and supply the amino acids needed to manufacture complex proteins. Since no cattle, goats, sheep or horses existed on the land before the arrival of the Spaniards, this agricultural tradition was of the greatest importance in providing adequate protein. Peas and beans belong in the Leguminosae family and were once known as "pulses". They can be classified in two broad categories: those with edible pods and those that are shelled. Sugar snaps, snow peas, string beans, waxed beans, and cranberry beans are all eaten in the pod. They are picked at an immature stage when pods are crisp and tender and they are eaten as a fresh vegetable. They do not contain the protein of dry beans, but each morsel is loaded with fiber, minerals, vitamin C and beta carotene. They herald the good cheer of summer. In olden days there was a belief that growing things harbored secret poisons. The conventional wisdom of past centuries prescribed long cooking for these fresh greens. Old cookbooks feature recipes where the vegetables are accompanied by ham hocks, slabs of bacon or other fats, and the combination had to be cooked for an hour or more. Food writers and chefs tried to rescue the attractive green color in fresh vegetables by adding a pinch of bicarbonate of soda. Some cooks tossed a copper coin into the pot to counteract what they viewed as detrimental acids. These were ill-advised remedies: bicarbonate ruins the taste of the vegetable and copper is a known health hazard. Enjoying Edible Pods These old recipes are of historical interest, but crisp, tasty vegetables are more nutritious and far more popular these days. Blanching is a quick method of keeping vegetables crisp, and the quick tossing of the greens in rapidly boiling water retains the chlorophyll, which means they come to the table as bright appetizing greens.
Buy beans or peas from loose bins and choose snappy, crisp pods of approximately the same size so that they cook evenly - old, wrinkled or overcooked pods lose nutritive value as well as taste. Wash the beans, shake off excess water, remove tips and strings when necessary. Leave sugar snaps and snow peas whole. Fresh string beans not more than 1/4 inch in diameter taste best when cooked whole, larger beans may be cut to desired size. Immerse the beans in boiling water in a large uncovered pot. Keep the water boiling for approximately two minutes, then drain and rinse in cool water to stop the cooking action. The beans are green, crisp, and perfect for a salad. Blanching may be done hours in advance, but reheating should wait until you are ready to serve. Toss the blanched beans into a pan with a tablespoon of melted butter or oil, season with salt and pepper, and cover the pan. Let the beans warm thoroughly for three or four minutes until they are tender but still crisp. Flip the pan to evaporate moisture and serve promptly with meat, fish, or as a separate course. One pound of beans will serve three to four people. The French favor a slender bean called haricot vert, an adaptation of the American green bean. For a great salad toss the blanched beans with 1/4 cup olive oil, a teaspoonful of lemon juice and 3 tablespoons of raspberry or mild rice vinegar. Let stand at room temperature for two hours. Serve it on crisp lettuce as a luncheon entrée or with cold cuts, canned tuna or poached chicken breasts for a light, nourishing meal. For a particularly fresh and lively version of haricots verts, toss the blanched beans into a saucepan with a tablespoon of hot butter over moderately high heat. Add seasoning, a tablespoon of lemon juice, and serve in a vegetable dish. Sprinkle with parsley. The Italians favor a more robust bean called Romano. Its sturdier texture combines well with mushrooms, shallots or sweet peppers. Green Pole Beans or Romanos with Mushrooms Blanch the beans (as above) and drain. Melt butter in a skillet, add onion and cook for five minutes until soft, not browned. Add mushrooms and cook for ten minutes more, then add herbs, seasoning and green beans. Heat gently until beans are soft, about three minutes. Serves four.
Green Bean Casserole Blanch beans, drain and rinse and pour into a baking dish. Melt butter and sauté garlic, onion and green pepper until vegetables are soft. Add stewed tomatoes and Tabasco sauce to sautéed vegetables and simmer for five minutes more, then pour the sauce over the beans. Sprinkle cheese on top and bake for 25 minutes until casserole is thoroughly heated and cheese is melted and bubbly. Serves six.
Green Beans and Green or Red Peppers Choose slender beans, remove tips. Blanch and drain. Butter an ovenproof dish, arrange a layer of beans, sprinkle with onion, diced pepper and seasoning, dot with butter, arrange more layers of beans, ending with butter. Cover tightly and bake in 375 degree oven for 40 minutes. Serves four to six.
Green Bean Ring Purée beans and cheese in food processor or blender. Add eggs and seasoning. Stir well to combine. Pour into a buttered pan or ring mold and bake in a 350 degree pre-heated oven for 40 minutes or until lightly browned and puffy. This recipe is an ideal vehicle for left-over green beans that have been blanched. Serves four.
Dried Beans Dried beans have always been considered "a poor man's food." They are always available and inexpensive, and because they are easy to harvest and are slow to spoil, they can be stored and shipped. Beans, baked, canned or cooked, were Depression era foods. They were not considered epicurean fare, but that is changing. Beans have taken on a more glamorous role since the consumption of meat has gone down and starchy foods that are rich in protein are urged on us by the US Food and Drug Administration. Cooking methods had to be tailored for beans to enjoy this healthful reputation. Fats had to be eliminated - ham bones, slabs of bacon and sow belly had to go. Eliminating saturated fats made beans more digestible, and new cooking methods reduce the nitrate gases. Vegetarian baked beans now come canned in a variety of healthful combinations. Of the hundreds of varieties of dried beans now in the market, here is just a sampling:
Cooking Dried Beans Presoaking dried beans before cooking usually removes indigestible substances that cause gas and indigestion. The beans should be soaked for at least four hours or overnight. The water in which beans have been soaked is discarded. This is an important step because the discarded water carries away some of the nitrates that produce gas. A shortcut for those who do not plan a day ahead and have no time for long soaking is to bring beans to a boil, cook for two minutes, then remove from heat and let soak for one hour. Discard water and proceed with the recipe. Standard cooking time for the common American beans (pinto, navy, black, Great Northern and lima), ranges from one to two hours. To keep the skins intact, simmer beans gently in sufficient unsalted water to cover, the usual measurement is three cups of water to one cup of beans. Add more water as cooking liquid boils down. It is important not to add salt or acids like vinegar, lemon juice or tomatoes while cooking. Salt and acids toughen beans and prolong cooking time. While beans are cooking keep the lid tilted to prevent pot from boiling over. Cool the cooked beans in their cooking water so that they do not dry out and have burst skins. Beans - Cooked and Baked A wide range of options is available for working with dry beans in casseroles, salads and fillings. To prepare beans for cooking or baking be sure to soak in a large quantity of water, which is discarded and replaced with sufficient fresh water to cover the volume of beans by at least three inches. Cooked beans will require 1 to 2 hours to become soft and still have a toothsome bite. To bake beans, bring beans to a boil on top of the stove then cover bean pot and place in a 325 degree oven. Bake for 40 minutes to an hour. Test by biting into a bean to see whether it is tender. Keep beans in remaining cooking or baking liquid until ready to use so that the beans stay soft and the skins do not crack or dry out. Frijoles Negros - Cooked Beans - a Mexican specialty Soak the beans, drain, place in kettle with water to cover 2 to 3 inches. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for one hour or until beans are tender. Serve with rice (beans and rice, very nice!).
Stewed Lamb with White Kidney Beans Brown lamb and remove from heat. Pour off fat. In same pan sauté onions in butter until soft. Return lamb to the pan with the onions. Stir in tomato paste and tomatoes. Add 2 cups of water, bring to a boil, and let simmer for 1/2 hour. Add beans, bell peppers, paprika and seasoning, add enough water to cover beans and let simmer for another 1/2 hour until water is absorbed and beans are surrounded by succulent gravy. Serves 8. Southwest Hopping John In butter or margarine sauté onion, green pepper, cumin and garlic. When vegetables are tender add peas, and stir in remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer until rice is tender, about 45 minutes. Makes 8 generous servings. The earliest settlers learned from the Indians how to bake beans by digging a hole in the ground and letting them bake overnight. Old-timers still swear by this method which takes us back about 1000 years in the history of cooking.
Beanhole Baked Beans Soak the beans overnight, discard liquid and replace with fresh water in a large kettle. Add salt pork or smoked turkey, bring to a boil and simmer for 45 minutes, until beans are barely tender. Transfer beans to heavy bean pot or Dutch oven, add remaining ingredients. Dig a hole, twice as deep as the pot. Place flat rocks in the bottom of hole and build a charcoal or wood fire on top. Remove coals from hole, set aside. Set pot into the hole, cover and push layer of dirt onto the top, then set coals and hot rocks on top of that. Leave overnight and enjoy. This is party fun, not the most modern cookery method!
Bean Soups Bean soups are popular in every country. They are filling and economical. Usually they are made with ham bone or other fat. This Caribbean version substitutes charred sweet peppers to achieve a smoky taste. Black Bean Soup Wash beans, soak overnight. Next day discard water in which beans have been soaked. Transfer beans to a large pot and add water to 3 inches above beans. Bring to a boil. Wipe charred peppers dry and dice. Sauté chopped onion, peppers and garlic in butter and add to beans. Add bay leaves and continue to simmer slowly. When beans are tender and liquid has thickened remove bay leaves and add seasoning and vinegar. You can give it a velvety smoothness by putting it through a food mill or food processor. This soup is more like a stew than a soup, especially when served over rice which makes it a good source of protein.
Bean salads are an excellent source of protein, one that can be prepared early and served at room temperature. Mediterranean Bean Salad Combine the ingredients carefully, try not to mash the beans. Let stand at room temperature for about two hours.
For a meatless entrée well suited to a vegetarian dinner, brown rice and beans make a very nice dish indeed. Herbed Rice with Beans In a non-stick pan, melt butter and sauté onions, mushrooms and garlic until soft but not brown. Add rice and stir until rice and vegetables are blended. Add chicken broth, bring to a boil, add basil, oregano and bay leaves. Simmer for 40 minutes or until rice is tender. Remove bay leaves, test seasoning and add salt (optional). Combine rice with beans for a hearty entrée. |
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All material on this site is copyright 2003-2005 by Vicki Oppenheimer and Milpah Press. For information on the availability of the printed version of The Taste Makers, please write to us. This page was last updated on 24-Nov-2005. |
